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Note: While the stain was drying, I ripped and sanded the pieces for the door’s Z- brace (also 6 inches wide), then sanded, stained and set them aside. Once the backer is dry, lay the steel rail flat on top of the backer and mark the hole locations for the rail fasteners along the centerline of the wood, then remove. On the wall, locate and mark the studs. Test that your marks are accurate by driving an awl or screw through the drywall to make sure you hit lumber; this connection needs to be very solid. Hold the backer to the level line and tack in place with finish nails or screws. It helps to have an assistant for this. Install the Rail Hardware. I drilled all the pilot holes (3/8 inches, just slightly smaller than the 1/2- inch shank of the lag screw I used) and then installed the stand- offs and rail using an impact driver and a Stanley Black Chrome socket. The backer and Barn. Door. Hardware- provided stand- offs hold my 1- 1/2- inch door slab out past the casing with a little room to spare, enabling it to slide without obstruction. However, it’s always a good idea to test how your door will roll on the hardware to make sure it clears everything and doesn’t leave too big of a gap. I did this with a block of wood as thick as the door (you don’t need to build the whole door). I assembled the individual boards on a Jaw. Horse jig. Fab The Slab. With the backer and rail pieces installed, I could get exact measurements for laying out the length of the slab. I measured from 1 inch above the top roller’s bolt- hole to 1/2 inch above the floor. In my case, this delivered an 8. Because I used T& G flooring, I trimmed the groove off one end- board and the tongue off the other to get square edges. Note: For wider doors, there’s no reason you can’t use a fraction of a piece of flooring as your end pieces—equal widths on both sides looks best. You don’t need to use a full board as I did; my door width just worked out this way. At this point, do not cut to length yet. Leave everything at least 6 inches wild. Secure the ends with clamps and blocks to keep the slab flat. Instead of bar or pipe clamps, I used two Jaw. Horses as both a work station and as my clamping system. First, I set the Jaw. Horses up on a flat surface. We used not- so- flat grass as a contrasting background color so the photos would be clear; a garage slab is ideal. If you set up on a not- so- flat surface you may transfer a warp into the door.) A couple of 2- by blocks on top of the Jaw. Horse body evens out ridges on the tool. A straight 2- by- 4 rail on each side of the slab delivered uniform clamping pressure along both edges of the slab. With those pieces in place, I gently snugged the boards together in the Jaw. Horse jaws. Next, I clamped a 2- by block on edge to the top and bottom side of the slab—on each end. 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